On the plus side, it’s a less expensive option than totally replacing the wall, and it can help you add a stylish update to your space more quickly and with less hassle. Tiling over lath and plaster is possible, but it comes with its own advantages and disadvantages. Advantages and Disadvantages of Tiling Over Lath and Plaster This will help ensure that moisture doesn’t seep through and create problems with your new tile installation down the line.įollowing these steps will help ensure that your tiling project goes smoothly and that you end up with a beautiful result that stands the test of time. If necessary, use a plaster compound or skim coat to level out any dips or distortions in the surface.įinally, it’s always a good idea to seal the area with a waterproofing barrier first. You’ll also need to make sure that the wall is flat and level, as any unevenness can cause tiles to crack or come loose over time. If there are any concerns, consult a professional to make sure the surface is suitable for tiling. If you’re thinking of tiling over lath and plaster, there are a few things you should consider before you get started.įor starters, it’s important to make sure that the lath and plaster are in good condition.Ĭheck for cracks, warps, and other signs of damage that could indicate structural issues. It all depends on the condition of the plaster, really and that's a judgment call that needs an experienced eye, on-site, can't be done over the 'net.7 FAQS What Are the Considerations When Tiling Over Lath and Plaster? (1/2" is too floppy, will telegraph irregularities too much, & look like crap) If you have localized damage - say, under a bathroom - but the rest of the ceiling is sound, and it's an occupied space where you don't want to have all that wreckage? The best thing is to remove just the damaged part, shim out the joists/studs to the same level as the sound plaster, and sheetrock over the whole lot with 5/8" drywall. Don't imagine you can use a remodel recessed fixture in plaster, the plaster's too thick for the clips to work.ĭrywalling over the old plaster can work, and sometimes, it's the best solution. This all assumes you know how to patch P&L. It's a whole extra order of magnitude, really. If I ripped out all the plaster & sheetrocked, in every ceiling or wall he needed to fish wires through? A whole lot of 2-3 day jobs would have been month-long jobs. In fact, that's how I learned what I know about electrical - used to do a lot of plaster-repair work for an electrician. It's definitely do-able, we do it all the time, here - we have a lot of plaster & lathe in NYC. Make the holes you need, fish the wires, patch. If it's in good shape, it's often a lot easier & just as well to leave it. I also vote for "tough call to make over the internet". And if you did have the ceiling opened up, you could use the opportunity to prewire for voice/data if this is a living area. But since you are installing recessed lighting, if you are using proper mounting boxes, it just makes sense to open everything up to give yourself ease of access to install the boxes and run wire properly and to code. If it were me, and I peered up into the ceiling cavity and didn't see any insulation up there.that would settle things and I would tear it all down and insulate the ceiling properly and then drywall it. At least if you start from scratch, you can shim out where you need to address any settling in the floor joists. Not to mention that any imperfections in the L&P cieling might not be apparent now, but when you drywall over it, you will get the imperfections in your boarding. In my opinion, drywalling over it is a terrible and lazy way to do the job it just complicates everything down the line in case you have to repair or install anything later on. As soon as I see L&P my desire is to bash it all to hell I can't stand the stuff.
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